Yeppoon to the Whitsunday Islands.
Operation Talisman Sabre in full swing, as an unknown yacht skirts around a US carrier and a live firing exercise off Shoalwater Bay.
At anchor off the beach at South Percy Island. There's been a lot of water under the keel since the last blog update. The weather's been so damn fine that I've been up on deck in the sunshine every day and avoiding the laptop below decks.
So, the story continues.
It was quite a while back when we hauled anchor at 2.00 a.m. from Great Keppel Island, ready for the Big Passage past the war games.
We were banned from the coast, thanks to the big military exercises, and set off in blustery Southerlies and a robust following swell, on a dark, moonless night. We had carefully plotted the borders of the military area to avoid wandering into the zone, after dire threats from the Government. Jail, big fines and boat confiscation were all part of the package for straying yachties.
So it was a long, rough night and only as the dawn broke could we see a couple of other yachts, ahead and behind us. And it was rough and rolly, with Mary suffering her very first bout of seasickness since leaving Geelong. I was actually pleased that it was too dark to see the waves coming at us from behind the boat!
But, as the next day brightened up, the seas gradually eased, and it was nice to know there were other yachts out here with us too.
Late in the afternoon we arrived into the blessed calm of remote Hexham Island, and squeezed into the little anchorage along with five or six other yachts, one of them being the big Benetau Clipper, "Savant" from Geelong. A blissful night's sleep, safely away from the strong winds, military chatter from the warships and rolling swell.
The morning dawned clear and calm, and followed by Austin and Jan aboard "Savant" we headed off like real tropical Cruisers for the island-hopping that we'd been dreaming about.
So, the story continues.
It was quite a while back when we hauled anchor at 2.00 a.m. from Great Keppel Island, ready for the Big Passage past the war games.
We were banned from the coast, thanks to the big military exercises, and set off in blustery Southerlies and a robust following swell, on a dark, moonless night. We had carefully plotted the borders of the military area to avoid wandering into the zone, after dire threats from the Government. Jail, big fines and boat confiscation were all part of the package for straying yachties.
So it was a long, rough night and only as the dawn broke could we see a couple of other yachts, ahead and behind us. And it was rough and rolly, with Mary suffering her very first bout of seasickness since leaving Geelong. I was actually pleased that it was too dark to see the waves coming at us from behind the boat!
But, as the next day brightened up, the seas gradually eased, and it was nice to know there were other yachts out here with us too.
Late in the afternoon we arrived into the blessed calm of remote Hexham Island, and squeezed into the little anchorage along with five or six other yachts, one of them being the big Benetau Clipper, "Savant" from Geelong. A blissful night's sleep, safely away from the strong winds, military chatter from the warships and rolling swell.
The morning dawned clear and calm, and followed by Austin and Jan aboard "Savant" we headed off like real tropical Cruisers for the island-hopping that we'd been dreaming about.
Anchorage at South Percy with "Savant" in the sunrise.
South Percy. So THIS is cruising! South Percy Island is a little more remote than its better-known Middle brother, and it felt just SO good to drag the dinghy up onto the squeaky white sand over bits of washed-up coral. Old aboriginal middens ashore, and protected National Park. And we're inside the Great Barrier Reef so the water feels calm.
From there, it was around the corner to Middle Percy, the absolute "must visit" island for cruisers, withit's famous (amongst yachties, anyway) "A" frame shack with hundreds....if not thousands....of plaques bearing the names of passing yachts. I'd spent a few hours back at Yeppoon making my contribution, so was pleased to deliver it.
From there, it was around the corner to Middle Percy, the absolute "must visit" island for cruisers, with
The famous Middle Percy Island "A" frame.
And our contribution to the decor! There were a dozen or so boats anchored in the bay, and it's a beautiful setting. Amazing that nobody's built a resort here, but thank god, the caretakers do a fantastic job looking after it and it really feels welcoming.
We caught up, too, with Grant and Marian St. Quentin, who'd left Great Keppel (in the rain) a few days before we did. And had an even rougher trip!
"Sundowners" on the beach that night were terrific, and in the morning we set off for yet another island paradise, Curlew Island, once again in company with our friends on "Savant".
We caught up, too, with Grant and Marian St. Quentin, who'd left Great Keppel (in the rain) a few days before we did. And had an even rougher trip!
"Sundowners" on the beach that night were terrific, and in the morning we set off for yet another island paradise, Curlew Island, once again in company with our friends on "Savant".
Just some of the Middle Percy collection. And I don't know why, but I neglected to take pictures of Curlew Island. I guess it could've been the classic rocky point set-up, and if it had swell, it would be an epic surf spot. I did feel inspired to paddle my surfboard to the beach, and actually accepted a tow from Austin in his dinghy, which was the closest thing to surfing I've had for quite a while.
It causes me to reflect a little, in that a lifetime addiction to surfing does tend to mean that I've spent most of my life clinging to those bits of the coast with waves. And missing out on absolutely amazing pieces of my own country like these islands!
Nonetheless, the surfboards still litter the deck, and the inflatable SUP is their, too.
It causes me to reflect a little, in that a lifetime addiction to surfing does tend to mean that I've spent most of my life clinging to those bits of the coast with waves. And missing out on absolutely amazing pieces of my own country like these islands!
Nonetheless, the surfboards still litter the deck, and the inflatable SUP is their, too.
And the view of the Middle Percy anchorage from within the Inner Sanctum.
Hay Point coal ship line-up.
And this is a close-up! From Curlew Island, we had an absolutely flat-glass water run back to the Real World, albeit a surreal one. It was in towards the coast, and past the biggest Coal Export port in the Southern Hemisphere, being Hay Point, where we counted 27 ships lined up awaiting the call into port for their loads of black fossil fuel. From there, onwards to the Marina at Mackay, again meeting up with several boat crews who we'd been getting to know at various ports and anchorages. Sapphire Of London, Savant, Finesse Fremantle, Liberator, New Tricks, and more, all of whom were getting repairs done, provisioning, or just lapping up a bit of land-life.
But we were on a special mission, and as well as the provisioning and obligatory boat maintenance, we were waiting on the arrival of our daughter India, who was joining the crew for a few short days' break. After a few days of being mall-rats in the big "Canelands" shopping centre, we were very pleased to meet her at the airport and set sail back to the islands. Brampton was our first stop, and again, we had calm water, clear sunny skies and wonderful warm weather.
But we were on a special mission, and as well as the provisioning and obligatory boat maintenance, we were waiting on the arrival of our daughter India, who was joining the crew for a few short days' break. After a few days of being mall-rats in the big "Canelands" shopping centre, we were very pleased to meet her at the airport and set sail back to the islands. Brampton was our first stop, and again, we had calm water, clear sunny skies and wonderful warm weather.
India the Bowsprit queen. Having India aboard added another dimension to the journey, and fortunately there were no dramatic, windy/watery moments during her stay.
Brampton Island was a little strange, but still pretty damn good. There's an abandoned resort there, soon to be bulldozed and replaced with a new seven-star model, which will no doubt have a "not welcome" mat for cruising yachts.
So we enjoyed it in its current state, with its turtles and kangaroos and sparkly clean water.
A nice, quiet and safe anchorage for India's first night outside port, and everybody was happy.
Brampton Island was a little strange, but still pretty damn good. There's an abandoned resort there, soon to be bulldozed and replaced with a new seven-star model, which will no doubt have a "not welcome" mat for cruising yachts.
So we enjoyed it in its current state, with its turtles and kangaroos and sparkly clean water.
A nice, quiet and safe anchorage for India's first night outside port, and everybody was happy.
Stoked to be on her very first Australian Tropical Island!
Friendly Brampton Island local.
Naked Lady Beach, Thomas Island. From Brampton the next morning it was further north to tiny Thomas Island, where, on the Northern side, there's a trio of clean sandy beaches divided by rocky headlands. We were anchored off what I think was the pick of 'em, the wonderfully named Naked Lady Beach. Yes, seriously! More turtles, more swimming off the boat and more dinghy rides. Even Mary finally took the plunge!
Not a naked lady in sight though unfortunately.
Not a naked lady in sight though unfortunately.
Crowded, innit?
Back home it's still freezing. Another calm night on the anchor, and, in the morning, another pleasure cruise, this time to the south-eastern side of Lindeman Island, in the Shaw channel. A bit of an eye-opener with masses of plastic pollution...blown in over years by the prevailing South-East Tradewinds to all of the south-facing beaches. Sad, frustrating and disappointing. Hard to believe that this is Australia and not a third-world country where I've come to expect it.
It will have a profound effect on my choice of purchases in the future. Disposable plastic crap is everywhere we look. And it ends up in our oceans!
It will have a profound effect on my choice of purchases in the future. Disposable plastic crap is everywhere we look. And it ends up in our oceans!
The golf carts line the street adjoining the marina. But there's another island to conquer and it's onward to Hamilton Island, the privately-developed tourist holiday glitzorama that has a valet-boat service at the marina to meet us on the way in and help visitors tie up. And take the money, a cool $120 for the night's rent. Which not only gives us hot showers and facilities, it gives us the run of the island's resort hotel facilities, including the pool with swim-up bar. There's no private cars on the island, but there are free shuttle buses and what must be the world's biggest fleet of golf buggies. Anyway, we lap up the luxury and join Austin and Jan for dinner in the Pub. They're serious golfers and so had played a round on the spectacular course earlier in the day.
The whole Hamilton Island experience feels a little like Disneyland. Fake, but nice.
The whole Hamilton Island experience feels a little like Disneyland. Fake, but nice.
Airlie Beach. Just one of the many anchorages.
Next stop, Airlie Beach, a short sail across the Whitsunday passage and around the corner from Shute Harbour. Back on the mainland for a couple of nights, in another Marina, for re-provisioning and to put India on the bus back to Mackay airport.
It was wonderful having her on the boat, and it wasn't long enough. Sniff!
And Airlie Beach is a wonderful town, in a perfect location.
I took the opportunity to make a way overdue visit to the Dentist, who took the opportunity to fill three teeth and extract the most money in the shortest time possible. Which I think hurt me more than him.
Fully recovered, and with yet more discoveries to make, it was soon off to Cid Harbour for a night's anchorage, where I effectively siezed the motor on Dora The Dinghy during a trip to the beach. (Fortunately, she cooled down, and in the morning, after taking the motor off and bringing it back aboard "Endurance", it miraculously started again and has been running happily ever since.)
It was wonderful having her on the boat, and it wasn't long enough. Sniff!
And Airlie Beach is a wonderful town, in a perfect location.
I took the opportunity to make a way overdue visit to the Dentist, who took the opportunity to fill three teeth and extract the most money in the shortest time possible. Which I think hurt me more than him.
Fully recovered, and with yet more discoveries to make, it was soon off to Cid Harbour for a night's anchorage, where I effectively siezed the motor on Dora The Dinghy during a trip to the beach. (Fortunately, she cooled down, and in the morning, after taking the motor off and bringing it back aboard "Endurance", it miraculously started again and has been running happily ever since.)
Shipwrecked in Airlie Beach.
"Endurance Of The South" lies behind "Finesse Fremantle" in Nara Inlet
Nara Inlet, on Hook Island. We'd run into Ron and Peta on "Finesse" at Cid Harbour, (I first met them in Yeppoon when they pulled into the marina in their beautiful 44ft. Nauticat) and when Dora's motor played up, apart from towing us back to the boat, they offered to share their dinghy if we wanted to continue onto Hook Island's Nara Inlet with them.
We did, and ran through the amazing fiord-like inlet in their dinghy, climbing a short track to the aboriginal cave paintings. There's evidence at the caves and thereabouts that goes back 9000 years, and it's easy to imagine the abundance that once existed here. Before whitefellas came and took over anyway.
But it's still a beautiful place, and later, I paddled the SUP over live coral reefs and watched brightly coloured little fish swimming around through the crystal clear water. Another epic anchorage and great company.
The next morning, and no longer needing to head back to port to buy a new dinghy motor, we went our separate ways, "Finesse" aiming for Butterfly Bay.
For us, it was back to the mainland and a quiet anchorage in Woodwark Bay, enroute towards the Gloucester Passage and the annual Vice Commodore's reunion of the Shag Islet Cruising Yacht Club, of which we were about to become members. And Vice Commodores!
We did, and ran through the amazing fiord-like inlet in their dinghy, climbing a short track to the aboriginal cave paintings. There's evidence at the caves and thereabouts that goes back 9000 years, and it's easy to imagine the abundance that once existed here. Before whitefellas came and took over anyway.
But it's still a beautiful place, and later, I paddled the SUP over live coral reefs and watched brightly coloured little fish swimming around through the crystal clear water. Another epic anchorage and great company.
The next morning, and no longer needing to head back to port to buy a new dinghy motor, we went our separate ways, "Finesse" aiming for Butterfly Bay.
For us, it was back to the mainland and a quiet anchorage in Woodwark Bay, enroute towards the Gloucester Passage and the annual Vice Commodore's reunion of the Shag Islet Cruising Yacht Club, of which we were about to become members. And Vice Commodores!
Just some of the dinghys on Day One of the four-day party.
Prizes for the best-dressed boat. Over 170 boats arrived off tiny Shag Islet and the low-key Montes Resort, and this club, with no clubhouse, no marina and all of its 2700 members being officially Vice Commodores with embroidered, sky blue polo shirts to prove it. The celebrations continued for four days, with bands, prizes, book swaps, dinners, breakfasts, hula dancing and general mayhem. Oh, and a little drinking! There was the odd drama with people falling out of dinghys after a few too many sherbets on the beach, but in general it was a great few days meeting new people, as well as reacquainting ourselves with others, such as Robin Plum and Jan from Torquay, and Bruce and Jim from the catamaran "New Tricks".
Shags on a rock. Barbecue and Kite-flying day.
Shags in the sunlight. Sunset over Shag Islet.
It's all a bit silly really, but all of the activities go towards raising funds for Prostate Cancer research and the money raised is significant. So all good! And I now have a nice official club Vice Commodore's burgee (that's a little flag!) to fly from the boat's shrouds.
It must be Polynesian Day!
Fireworks finale at Shag Island. Three days of Shaggers was probably enough for us though, and we were happy to pack it in after the Saturday night fireworks.
So on Sunday morning we made our way out of the passage and headed south again, into a cracking southerly of course, and tacked our way back to Airlie Beach and the Abell Point marina.
We'd won a great deal on mooring fees at a Shaggers auction, so can afford to spend a bit of time there and have a look around the district as well as doing a bit of maintenance on the boat.
So what's next? Another guest aboard next week when Nikki Matthews arrives from Torquay and we'll visit another few islands and anchorages that we've yet to discover, based on the weather. Or, if the weather is REALLY nice, it might be out to the outer reef itself.
And then? Hmmm, Townsville sounds nice!
So on Sunday morning we made our way out of the passage and headed south again, into a cracking southerly of course, and tacked our way back to Airlie Beach and the Abell Point marina.
We'd won a great deal on mooring fees at a Shaggers auction, so can afford to spend a bit of time there and have a look around the district as well as doing a bit of maintenance on the boat.
So what's next? Another guest aboard next week when Nikki Matthews arrives from Torquay and we'll visit another few islands and anchorages that we've yet to discover, based on the weather. Or, if the weather is REALLY nice, it might be out to the outer reef itself.
And then? Hmmm, Townsville sounds nice!
This is where we've been. Yeppoon to Airlie Beach, the slow way.
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